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Tea CeremonyThe problem with translation is not so much in the words as in the connotations we associate with them. The average Westerner hears “ceremony” and pictures stiff formalism and unmoving expressions, a delicate procedure in which a mistake means loss of face, and comfort is the last thing on participant’s minds. Enough Chinese people to fill Europe and North America partake in what may be called a tea ceremony whenever they can. Though China certainly has its share of formalism and stringent ritual in its cultural canons, the phrase “tea ceremony” means rest, relaxation, and fun. Most importantly, it’s a time-honored method for making the most of your tea.Best of all, acquiring your own tea ceremony skills and style is part of the process of buying tea in China. The Chinese marketplace, for whatever reason, dictates that all purveyors of a particular product mass together, in cavernous buildings or crowded bazaars. They besiege the shopper with row after row of small stalls and stores that generally do not vary much. They face each other across tiny walkways where one may pass comfortably alone, but are usually peopled three abreast. The proprietor does her own marketing, inviting all and sundry, some with an aggressive tug of the shirt, others with a friendly acknowledgment, after making eye contact.Our appendix lists the best teahouses and markets for whatever city you’re in, but know that they’re pretty much all the same. However, this does not mean boredom, but convenience. Whichever one you visit will offer tea in grade from sublime to mediocre, and will follow the same rule: the customer is god. Any teashop you step into will feature a host who is only too happy to have you sit down and have a quick cuppa, or while the day away sampling different teas.Whatever you do, don’t sweat the cross-cultural small stuff. The Chinese are marvelous at picking up on subtle emotional clues, and will know if you’re tired or stressed, gregarious or reserved, serious or convivial. They will want to know where you’re from, and if you want to hold forth, every last detail about your life. Nobody’s business? Not a problem. They also want to tell you anything you want to know about tea, and a lot you didn’t know that you should know . At the end of your visit, whether you’ve drunk so much as to float a container ship or just pantomimed a few pleasantries, there’s no pressure to buy. What kind of shopping could be more pleasant? Please see Appendix 1 for a brief guide to making it even more so.